November 2022
Not quite ,but a great coastal town to visit nonetheless.
In assembling a list of “must see” destinations in Portugal, Aveiro is often overlooked. With a lack of iconic cultural sights and an appearance that at first glance lacks appeal, you may think this justified. Dig just a little deeper and you’ll find Aveiro is quite charming and a lot of fun as well. Arriving by train is a bit underwhelming as you are met by drab commercial buildings and roads under construction. Within blocks however, you come to a myriad of canals filled with colorful Moliceiros boats and lined by stores and restaurants. While Aveiro is often referred to as “the Venice of Portugal” don’t get your hopes too high. If you’re expecting Venice you’ll likely be disappointed. If it’s a nice relaxing break from some of the more touristy spots on your journey through Portugal you’re looking for, then you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
You can spend an entire day wandering the canals and the back streets of Aveiro. Start your day early in the morning by grabbing a cup of coffee and a pastry at Porta do Cafe on Rue de Luis Cipriano. Located on a side street with some limited outside seating, this cafe is well run and appears to be a locals favorite. Enjoy one of Aveiro’s famous Ovos Moles which are easy to find all over town. Be sure to hit the Mercado do Peixe at Largo da Praca de Peixe 28 in the morning to enjoy the fish mongering on a local level. To get a unique perspective of Aveiro, see the city from the water by taking a ride on one of the Moliceiros boats. Look out for the customary, tastefully naughty, burlesque style paintings, on the stern of the boats. One boat captained described the paintings as traditional for Moliceiros boats and meant to be depictions of everyday life in Aveiro of old. Must of been a wild town.
Grab a quick lunch or late afternoon snack at any of the many cafe’s and restaurants that line the canals. For a good view of the water and a great meal for a good price try Faros Gourmet near the Fish Market. Another good find is the eclectic restaurant Armazem da Alfandega also near the Fish Market. Armazem da Alfandega opens for lunch, closes in the afternoon before opening again for dinner after 7:00 PM. Great food for a very reasonable price. For “cheap eats” and a cold beer, a stop at the always busy Cafe Central is a good bet. Plenty of outside seating makes for good people watching as well.
When you’ve had your fill of Aveiro, head over to the bus stop across from the Royal School of languages ( R. de Jose Rabumba 2) and hop the bus to the beach at Costa Nova. The trip cost just a couple of euro and only takes 20-30 minutes. Costa Nova is known for its stripped houses that once belonged to the boat captains that fished the river and ocean. Aveiro has quite remarkably retained its fishing heritage and character despite becoming more and more a popular tourist destination. Be sure to take pictures of the cool stripped houses and the little light house, and wear a bathing suit and take a towel to enjoy the really nice beach. You’ll find a perfect spot for lunch or early evening cocktails at Bronze Seafood and Lounge situated right on the beach.
Located about an hour south by train, Aveiro makes for an easy day trip from Porto. In reality, it’s worth an overnight or two in order to ensure a relaxed visit. This is especially true if you’re set on seeing both Aveiro and Costa Nova. If traveling between Lisbon and Porto, Aveiro makes for a perfect stop along the way. If spending the night, Hotel das Salinas (8.9 on Booking) is a centrally located very nice hotel which comes a little cheaper during the shoulder seasons. A great budget option, especially for solo traveler’s is Suites & Hostel Cidade Aveiro (9.0 Booking) which offers private rooms with private bath and is within walking distance to everything.
So, is Aveiro really the “Venice of Portugal”? Nope, but it’s a great destination in its own right. If your trip allows, stop by for surprisingly pleasant night or two.
